“It rains all the time in England, doesn’t it? Our climate’s notoriously damp. Surely we don’t need to worry about water! It’s not like we live in Australia!” Familiar words if you start bringing up the topic of saving water. However, because of the need for clean, treated water and the population levels in Britain’s cities, water is indeed shorter than you would think and conserving water is necessary.
So what do you do?
Have short showers rather than hot baths for a daily wash – or even just give your face and hair a quick freshen up in the basin. This uses much less water than a bath. If you’re really keen, you can put a bucket in the shower to catch water while you’re waiting for the water to heat up. You can then use the water for whatever you fancy – watering the plants, cooking (providing the bucket was clean to start with)… However, you probably want a long hot bath every once in a while (maybe once a week) for relaxation and distressing purposes. In this case, consider trying one of the following to save water:
1: Share the bath with someone else who wants to relax and de-stress (yes – obviously, you’ll have to be on intimate terms with the person in question. This isn’t quite so practical if you want to have a bit of time out on your own in the bath to do spa-type things like put on a face mask or if you want to soak with a cheap paperback).
2: Leave the water in the bath. If the bath is in the same room as the lavatory, then use the bathwater to flush the loo – just keep a bucket handy. Alternatively, if you have a bathroom upstairs, put a hosepipe into the bath through the window and siphon the water out and down into the garden.
3: Don’t fill the bath right to the top. You can relax perfectly well with enough water to cover you, and you’ll avoid splashing all over the place.
4: Invest in a sauna – an expensive and luxurious option, but it does use less water and allows you to have a really good deep cleansing session spa-style.
Put a brick in the toilet tank, or else one of the proper “hippos” to reduce the amount of water that comes out when you flush the loo. The modern toilets that have a half flush for less substantial waste use much less water than the old type that just has a one-size-fits-all flush.
Several of these methods involve saving water by catching water in a bucket and using it to flush the loo. If you are trying these methods, you don’t need to tip the water into the tank of the toilet from a bucket. It is possible to get a loo to flush by dumping water into the toilet bowl directly. Raise the lid and invert the bucket quickly into the bowl. If your aim is good, semi-throw the water into the bowl as well as tipping it in. It’s the force that pushes the waste around the S-bend and down into the sewers. Pour the water from a reasonable height and don’t pussy-foot around letting the water trickle in slowly – this won’t work and could overflow.
This is one of the more unpleasant ways of saving water, but when it comes to flushing the toilet, you could follow the old Australian dictum: “If it’s yellow, let it mellow. If it’s brown, flush it down.” I’ll stick with the half-flush option and using the bucket.
Other places you can catch water in a bucket for flushing loos is the waste water pipe from the washing machine. While you’d need oodles of buckets to catch every bit of waste water that comes out of the machine as well as being very strong and fast (hmmm… that’s an idea for a workout session), even if you catch only a few buckets, you can save a bit of water. Soapy water is fit only for flushing loos, but first rinse water can go on the garden or can be used for washing cars, and second rinse water can be poured back into them machine and used for washing another load. Some washing machines have a sud-saver option that saves rinse water for using in the next wash load.
If you are boiling vegetables, use less water. This helps the water get to the boil more quickly – there’s less water to heat. Also consider putting a steamer above another saucepan double-boiler style to cook two menu items for one amount of water. Don’t forget other low-water methods such as microwaving, poaching, frying, baking and roasting.
Catch rainwater with a tank, tub or big bucket under the down-pipe. Water that has gurgled through the gutters and pattered onto your roof is probably not the best to use for cooking and drinking – you’ve probably had birds perching on the roof – but it is fine for flushing loos, watering the garden, window cleaning or general house cleaning .
If you’ve been busy with house cleaning (and everything else involved in today’s hectic lifestyle), you’re probably a bit worn out after it all. Your body needs as much attention as your home does to keep yourself feeling fresh and sparkling. There’s nothing like feeling pampered to refresh you, so why not try a home spa, which ensures that you will use only natural products on your skin and will cost a fraction of the price of a professional spa treatment.
These natural spa treatments won’t involve bathing in mud or anything really messy like that. After all, if you have to give the bathroom one heck of a cleaning after your spa session is over, you’re going to undo all the good of the spa treatments. If you’re going to feel revitalised and recharged, why waste your energy cleaning up what got you revitalised.
And remember: making and collecting what you need for a home spa is part of the fun.
To get the full benefit out of your home spa session, you will need a lockable bathroom, a tray or rack to hold all your home-made lotions, potions and scrubs, and a willing helper to give you a massage. If you want to re-create the ambience of a professional spa, candles or other low lighting (use a 25 W bulb in the bathroom rather than buying a special (read expensive) mood light), and relaxing instrumental music will do the trick. However, relaxing in the bath with any music you like and a paperback is just as beneficial.
Your spa will consist of three main parts: a facial, a bath and a massage, with the bath coming in the middle of the facial. The only really potentially messy part of this process is the massage, so put thick towels down on the bed or floor to soak up any oil that goes where you don’t want it – wash them in hot water to get the oil out afterwards.
The first part of the facial is cleaning it with a cleansing oil-based lotion. To make this, combine 10 ml wheatgerm or avocado oil with 30 ml of sesame oil and 30 ml of sunflower or almond oil. Add in about 5 drops of essential oil to add a bit of scent, and shake it all together. Dab it on the face and work it in well with a piece of cotton wool, a tissue or a soft cotton cloth, then wipe off with a fresh cloth, etc. This cleans off the surface dirt without stripping the natural oils of the skin.
Exfoliation comes next. You can do this by physical scrubbing with the inside of an avocado peel, a handful of coarse salt or sugar, oatmeal (cold porridge counts) or with a loofah. Or you can do it chemically with a mild fruit acid – kiwifruit pulp and pineapple juice are the strongest, but apple pulp and lemon juice work just as well. Or combine the two with a paste of salt and either lemon juice or kiwifruit pulp. Scrub the paste over the face and neck, then rinse off with cold water.
Steam the face next by draping a towel over your head and leaning over a bowl of boiling water. You can add some herbs or essential oils to the steam for extra fragrance and the aromatherapy effects of the oil. Don’t get too close to the water and skip this step if you have thread veins in your cheeks.
Now run the bath. While body oils are beautifully moisturizing, they are a pain to clean up afterwards. Whole milk powder gives the emollient qualities without being a pig to clean up and has that luxurious Cleopatra touch. Other good additions to a bath to improve and cleanse the skin include 2 cups of vinegar (cheap version) or 2 cups of wine (more expensive version, depending on the wine you choose), a cup of sea salt or a mixture of ingredients made in a bath bag. While the bath is running, prepare a face mask and heat up about a cup or so of olive oil for a hair treatment. Also lay out other bits and pieces that you will need for your bath, such as a face flannel, a razor if you plan to shave your legs, a loofah, a nice drink of green tea and a good book (OK – a trashy paperback). If you want to treat your hands, you can give them a “mask” too, but wear rubber gloves over the hand mask.
Work the warm oil into your hair and cover it with either a thick towel (which you will need to wash like anything in hot soapy water afterwards) or clingfilm to allow the oils to work into the hair. Slip into the bath and apply your mask. Now relax with the book, sipping green tea. Use the loofah, a natural bristle brush or the inside of an avocado skin to exfoliate your legs before shaving them (if you’re going to) and scrub anything else you can reach and want to treat – you may need a helper to do your back properly.
Rinse the mask off and rinse the excess oil out of the hair with a shower attachment once getting out of the bath. Dab yourself dry with a thick, fluffy towel and slip on a bathrobe. The facial now continues with an astringent or toning lotion. To make toning lotion, you can either make a herbal vinegar, use witch-hazel lotion, or dab on some cooled chamomile tea. To make astringent witch-hazel lotion, mix 1 t dried witch hazel with 1 t of dried yarrow and 1 t of dried sage, and put these to brew for 15 minutes, covered, in boiling water. Allow this to cool before using. To make herbal vinegar, steep the herbs of your choice (lavender is ideal) for a few weeks in vinegar before straining and bottling.
Put a moisturizer on your face. You can make your own moisturizer by melting 30 g of beeswax in 100 ml of light olive oil, then stirring in 30 ml of distilled water drop by drop until the mixture thickens – add about 3-4 drops essential oil if you like.
Finish with a massage. Olive oil is an excellent massage oil, as are almond oil, sunflower oil and peanut oil. Add 5 drops of essential oil to about a cup of oil to make a scented massage oil. Lie down and relax…
Some ingredients turn up again and again in recipes for natural home made cleaning products. This is a quick list (a what’s what) of these common ingredients and how they are used.
Product: Baking soda
What is it? Bicarbonate of soda, sodium bicarbonate, cooking soda NaHCO3. A white, alkaline powder. More familiar as a baking ingredient and as one of the components of baking powder. Non toxic but doesn’t taste all that pleasant on its own.
How it’s used: Baking soda is a good all-purpose cleaner either alone or in combination with other ingredients. It absorbs odours and can scrub hard surfaces (e.g. white ware, china, formica, metal, glass) without scratching. When used with vinegar, it reacts and the resulting effervescence (fizzing) can loosen tough dirt.
Product: Vinegar
What is it? Vinegar is an acid (acetic acid) that can be described as brewing gone wrong – any liquid that is intended to become an alcoholic drink can become vinegar. Vinegar can be made from all sorts of sources, with the most common being white vinegar (from white grapes), cider vinegar (apples), malt vinegar (barley) and wine vinegar (red grapes). White vinegar is the best to use for house cleaning purposes, with malt vinegar running a close second. Other vinegars work but because they are more expensive, they should not be wasted on cleaning. Don’t use balsamic vinegar for cleaning – it is too sticky to clean effectively and too delicious/expensive to waste on cleaning a cupboard. Non toxic.
How it’s used: Vinegar cleans without leaving a residue, making it suitable for window cleaning. Vinegar has anti-bacterial properties when it is used neat or slightly diluted (which is why it is used in pickling and preserving) and can kill mould. It reacts with baking soda to “fizz” off stubborn dirt or to unblock drains. It can also neutralize alkaline substances such as ammonia or soap.
Product: Alcohol
What is it? A liquid produced by fermenting sugars and yeasts, then distilling the results to remove as much water from the fermented brew. Strong spirits are best for cleaning, such as vodka, brandy and whisky. Rubbing alcohol or surgical spirits, and methylated spirits can also be used for cleaning. Mostly non-toxic if taken in small amounts, except for the methylated spirits, which is toxic. Don’t use low-alcohol beverages such as beer and wine, liqueurs or anything sticky for cleaning.
How it’s used: Alcohol kills bacteria, dissolves some substances (e.g. ink) that won’t come off with just water and evaporates without leaving a residue. Suitable for use as a stain remover in the laundry, as a glass cleaner and as a disinfectant.
Product: Lemon juice
What is it? Citric acid squeezed out from the lemon fruit. Citric acid is also present in the juice of other citrus fruits such as oranges and grapefruit, but not in such great quantities. Non toxic and very good for you. Can be a bit on the expensive side to use, unless you grow your own lemons or have access to large quantities of lemons.
How it’s used: Lemon juice is a mild bleach in sunlight and can be used as a stain remover. It acts as a mild disinfectant and can kill mould spores. While it does not absorb odours, the aroma of lemons (juice and peel) freshens the air.
Product: Soap
What is it? A blend of strong lye (caustic soda) and fats, usually tallow or palm oil. Often, soaps have other bits and pieces added in to alter the colour, the scent and the texture. Probably non-toxic but highly unpalatable – the old “wash your mouth out with soap after using such filthy language” never killed anyone but was very unpleasant. Must be rinsed off the skin after use. Making your own soap can be a profitable and amusing hobby/craft.
How it’s used: Soap breaks the surface tension of water, which means that water is better able to interact with dirt and lift it away from whatever you want to clean. It works best in the form of foam (lather) or gel (made by pouring boiling water over scraps of soap). It also denatures oils and grease so they can be cleaned off more easily, and is a mild disinfectant.
Product: Essential oils
What is it? Essential oils are the volatile aromatic principles (essences) derived from plants usually via distillation. As they are concentrated, they are toxic, even if they are derived from a non-toxic plant.
How it’s used: For domestic cleaning purposes, essential oils are mostly used to scent other ingredients. Some oils also have antibacterial properties (e.g. lavender, pine, thyme, oregano) and others remove stains (eucalyptus).
Other ingredients that are used in natural cleaning products, though not as frequently, include:
* sand
* salt
* washing soda
* borax
* glycerine.
It happens in every family. If it doesn’t happen in yours, you either do not have children or they are still under the age of two. But a number of reasons often get given in response to a request to clean a bedroom (or clean some other room in the house). The logic of these excuses can be dazzling…
1. But MUM!!!!!!!!
2. Aaaaaaaooooooowwwwwwwww!!!! (approximate spelling of a noise resembling that made by a half-starved bullock)
3. Whyyyyyy?????
4. I’m not a maid!
5. It IS clean. (usually said after removing a few clothes off the floor into the laundry basket, having kicked the rest under the bed)
6. You can’t make me!
7. Why do I have to do this dumb job? Can’t you pay a professional domestic cleaner to do it?
8. Why me? My sister/brother/best friend/cat doesn’t have to!
9. You’re so mean. I’m the only person in my class who has to clean their bedroom/clean the toilet/vacuum the living room.
10. But it makes my skin itchy!
There is one standard answer to all these stunning arguments: the old parental favourite “Clean your room because I said so.” Other answers are possible, with the numbered answers corresponding to the previous list of arguments.
1. Absolute silence, followed by issuing the complainer with appropriate cleaning tools such as a vacuum cleaner, a duster or (in extreme cases) a rake.
2. As above, possibly backed by a little bribery and corruption in the form of “When you’ve finished cleaning, you can go to the skate park.”
3. Because you’ll get sick if you don’t.
4. Neither am I.
5. Either silence, followed by a glance under the bed or in the cupboard, or else a threat to remove anything that isn’t in its place.
6. No computer/TV/Playstation until it’s done. If snotty protests continue, threaten to confiscate iPods.
7. Do you want to pay the professional cleaner with your pocket money? Alternatively, the Standard Parent Housework Speech should be used.
8. It’s your mess – you tidy it up (possibly followed by “And you didn’t have to vacuum your bedroom when you were the same age as your sister.”)
9. Other people can be slobs if they want to. We aren’t slobs. Alternatively, use Answer #1.
10. Then use soap and water/baking soda/vinegar. This is the only really good child excuse for not cleaning and they have a point. If you already use natural house cleaning products and the child whines because “we don’t use REAL cleaning stuff,” use the “saving money on cleaners so we have more money for things like holidays and trips away” response.
The Standard Parent Housework Speech:
We live in a nice house and we want to keep it that way. If we don’t keep the house clean, it will attract vermin like fleas or worse, and there’ll be germs everywhere and we’ll get sick. It’s also important that everybody learns responsibility and how to clean up after themselves. One day, you won’t have Mum and Dad around to clean up after you for free, so you need to know a few basic skills about looking after yourself. No, you will not get paid for cleaning up your own mess and a few other jobs. You are part of this family, and you need to do your bit to keeping us all healthy, same as we all do. As you get older, you will get more responsibilities, because that’s part of growing up… NOW GO CLEAN YOUR ROOM!
How the household sprays can trigger asthma: The household sprays comprise of spray cleaners and air fresheners. These materials often use strong ingredients. The strong ingredients may cause asthma in some adults. It is rather the most common source of asthma attack. Recent studies show that the chances of an asthma attack increase by 30% to 50 % with the use of household sprays.
The sprays such as window cleaning sprays, furniture sprays and air fresheners spread small particles in the air. These are inhaled very easily. Some of the ingredients in the sprays cause irritation. These ingredients are responsible for infections inside the lungs and the respiratory pipe can constricts due to this. This leaves the patient short of breath. Some patients may feel chest pain, throat irritation, coughing and wheezing.
If the patient is suffering from asthma, then a household spray can easily trigger the asthma attack. The small particles enter ones lungs and respiratory system which cause basic symptoms of asthma. The patient starts feeling short of breath, as his respiratory system start contracting. Coughing may start due to irritation in the throat and lungs.
Substitutes to the household cleaning sprays: The household sprays comprise of a wide range of materials. These are inclusive of hair sprays, air fresheners, spray cleaners and plant sprays. These sprays may contain chemicals that are harmful to the asthma patient. One can avoid these harmful sprays by using substitutes instead of these sprays. Some of the hardwood cleaners such as Easy Off can trigger an asthma attack instantly as it contains higher levels of ammonia. Instead of spray hardwood cleaners, use liquid cleaners. Studies have shown that liquid cleaners have no effect on the respiratory system.
Using eco friendly domestic cleaning products is another option. There are several manufacturers which produce organic cleaners. These do not contain harmful and strong chemicals. These are available in the form of fluids or dry powders. The powders are added in water to make think pastes or solutions. Such solutions are safer than spray cleaners.
Make use of bleaches as much possible. However the bleach should be chosen according to the furniture type. Some of the strong bleaches can harm the wooden furniture when used for cleaning. For cleaning the floor and other things, solutions such as Bacterial Wipes can be used. This solution is a good disinfectant and less harmful.
The best cleaning solution for any kind of stain is water and vinegar. The solution is mild and does not contain any fragrance. This solution can be used on any kind of surface, except the tops of quartz counters. For cleaning a wooden shelf, one can use a damp cloth and static dusters for dusting. Both these things avoid the spread of dust in the air. Dry baking soda can remove stains very effectively.
The easiest way to clean a glass surface is to spray water. Wipe the wet surface with paper instead of cloth. This procedure cleans the surface effectively.
Substitutes for air fresheners: This is a little tricky. However one can use cinnamon oil for scenting. It can be heated to spread the fragrance in the room. Similarly use different types of oils and heat them for fragrance. These work better rather than room fresheners which can trigger respiratory problems.
One of the big selling points for many commercial cleaners is their claim to kill 99% of germs in minutes. Since we discovered germs, we’ve realised why it’s so important to keep our houses clean. Dirt harbours germs, and germs make us sick. This is why we clean our toilets, clean our plates and clean our clothes.
We don’t want to get ill with some horrible germ.
However, pouring on pricey wonder-products blindly is not really the answer. Yes, it’ll kill the germs, but these cleaning products can damage the environment and fill your home with toxins that cause all sorts of damage to a number of your body’s systems. It’s time to stop and think exactly what’s needed to destroy germs, and what you’re trying to do when you clean your home.
Germs are not long-lived. And a single germ is easily dealt with by your immune system. The problem comes when germs thrive and multiply to a level that your body can’t deal with them without trouble – trouble in the form of vomiting, the runs and a high temperature in an attempt to purge the body. So the secret of good domestic cleaning is to make it hard for germs to reproduce.
Germs won’t reproduce if their cellular structure is damaged, and they won’t reproduce and thrive if they don’t have the basics of life, which are food and water. Any attempt at cleaning for hygiene should try to attack germs either by damaging them or by depriving them.
Depriving them. This is the harder part of cleaning. Grime is food for germs, so anything that you do to remove grime will deprive them of their food. Cleaning that deprives germs of food involves vacuuming, general scrubbing and wiping to remove grime, dusting, carpet cleaning and doing the laundry. It also involves flushing the loo and scrubbing/wiping away debris. Don’t forget to deprive germs of water, too.
Drying dishes, clothes and other items to be stored minimises water and makes it harder for germs to reproduce. This may also be why salt can be used around the home as a germ-killing cleaner: it dessicates the germs by drawing the water out of them.
Damaging the germs is a bit more straightforward. The only real problem is that the substances that can denature germs will also attack your skin cells (and other cells). However, your body, being a multi-cellular organism, can sacrifice a few cells easily enough for the sake of the whole being. So the secret is to use things that will damage the germs but won’t damage too many of your cells.
One of the simplest forms of denaturing the proteins inside bacteria and viruses so they can’t reproduce is by using heat. This is why hot water and steam cleaning are so effective. Not only does this remove grime, it also kills germs. Boiling (pasteurization) is an excellent method of sterilization, so if you really need to shift germs and the item to be cleaned can stand it, boiling water works! The high temperatures in dishwashers also helps kill germs. Fire also sterilizes, but has some obvious drawbacks! The only place you can really use fire as a germ-killer around the home is for sterilizing a needle for lancing boils or digging out thistles.
You can also chemically dissolve the cell walls of germs. This is done by disturbing the pH of the germ. This can be done with acid (in the form of vinegar) or with alkali (in the form of soap). Other substances also seem to break down bacteria by unravelling or dissolving their makeup, with alcohol being one (it’s a solvent) – vodka, whisky, rubbing alcohol or methylated spirits all do the job of killing germs around the home.
To many minds, the bathroom is the place where the greatest amount of bacteria lurk, whether or not your toilet is located in the bathroom itself or elsewhere. The bathroom often looks the tackiest, what with soap and toothpaste smears everywhere, grey soap scum on the taps and rings around the bath. And it can be all too easy to succumb to the temptation to bring in the heavy cavalry in the form of hospital-grade disinfectants and powerful degreasing agents that promise to cut through all your bathroom gunk in a manner of seconds as well as killing every single germ in sight.
However, these super-duper commercial cleaners often leave you with headaches from nasty fumes, and itchy, dry or even cracked skin from the chemicals. And the germ-killing bacteria certainly kill bacteria, but they also kill the skin cells in your hands. Thankfully, natural domestic cleaners work just as well, if not better, to get your bathroom sparkling and clean – and hygienic.
Actually, some of what gets smeared on bathroom taps and the top of vanity units is cleaning products: toothpaste and soap. All you need to do to remove this is give it a good rub with a damp flannel or cloth and it comes away easily and quickly. You can even squeeze out a little more toothpaste onto the taps and give them a good shining. The toothpaste just rinses off with a bit of water or another wipe with a damp cloth. If you clean your bathroom “little and often”, this can be all that you need to do to keep everything clean.
However, if it’s been a while since you cleaned the basin and if there’s grey scum in the bath, you’ll need a little more firepower. Have you ever noticed that many commercial cleaning products have the words “contains baking soda” emblazoned across their fronts? Well, baking soda is an extremely efficient natural cleaner that is perfect for scrubbing down bathroom surfaces. It won’t scratch either porcelain or taps, and it gets the gunge off. All you need to do is to mix a bit of baking soda – you may need about half a cup to do the bath thoroughly – with some water and apply it with a cloth. Leave it for a little, then get rubbing. It will require a little elbow grease to get all the muck off, but this is going to give you a small workout – it’s good for you. Rinse the baking soda off with fresh water.
Rinsing it off with white vinegar produces a satisfying fizz and also helps to attack any alkaline deposits.
Keep the vinegar handy for cleaning glass, whether the mirror or glass surround on a shower. The easiest way is to mix vinegar and water – a 50/50 mix – in a spray bottle and squirting this onto the glass to be cleaned. Rub well with a soft lint-free cloth, then dry off with another soft cloth. You can add some essential oil to the vinegar and water mix to add a pleasant scent to it, plus some germ-killing ability (neat vinegar will kill mould spores, so if you have discovered a nasty patch of mould in your bathroom, attack it with neat vinegar, then make sure you leave the bathroom well aired to stop the mould coming back). If you haven’t got a spray bottle, dampen a soft cloth with a vinegar/water mix and rub it directly onto the glass. Dry off with a second cloth.
The toilet is the one thing to clean in the bathroom area that gets most of us nervous. All those germs and the smell…
However, the yellow crystals and the skid marks will yield easily to a bit of scrubbing with the toilet brush plus a bit of hot soapy water. If you have one of those old duck-head bottles from some commercial toilet cleaner you bought in the past, save this and fill it with some soap gel (made by pouring boiling water onto soap scraps or grated soap). More stubborn stains within the toilet bowl can be shifted by leaving it overnight with one of the following natural cleaners:
* a cup or two of baking soda
* denture cleaning tablets – about two will do
* a can of Coke or Pepsi
Leave whatever you’ve selected in the toilet bowl overnight and DON’T USE THE LOO while it’s in there. Flush down in the morning, and finish off with a good scrub if necessary.
If you’re worried about germs in the toilet, you can use a little alcohol (vodka, whisky, brandy, rubbing alcohol or methylated spirits) to wipe down the toilet seat and the flush button.
Don’t bother putting disinfectant inside the bowl – it will just go down the drain with the next flush. The only places you are really going to come in contact with are the seat and the flush button, so these are the ones that really need disinfectant. And you’re going to wash your hands after using the loo, aren’t you? So don’t be too fussy about killing every single little germ – you’re not going to eat in there.
Household cleaning products mainly include soaps, dish wash, toilet cleaning liquid and detergents. The thing that has never crossed one’s mind is the fact that all of these contain chemicals that are harmful. These products have a diverse effect on us and may cause certain causalities.
The products that are used in maintenance and house cleaning may contain chemicals that are corrosive and poisonous. Some of them are even inflammable or chemically reactive. Common household products may disclose inert ingredients that are hazardous to ones health. They may contain traces of organic solvents and petroleum based chemicals that are capable of releasing volatile organic compounds into your indoor environment.
Some of these products are known to cause cancer to animals and are suspected to have human carcinogens. From recent studies made by the EPA’s total exposure assessment methodology it was found that there existed 12 common levels of common organic pollutants that are 5 times higher in your home than outside. They also found that people were exposing themselves to such high level of pollutants that persisted for a long time.
It is certainly not easy to predict what chemical is present in your household products that you buy. Generally a product becomes more toxic when they are mixed with another. When bleach is mixed with acid toilet bowl cleaners they can result in toxic and potentially deadly fumes. For instance bleach with ammonia is by far the most toxic and potentially lethal product wherein fumes are produced.
The use of these toxic chemicals may release toxic and hazardous vapors into the air which may be unhealthy for our families. The purchase of these hazardous products causes a higher demand for these chemicals in the market. When they are used they are not disposed off properly and released into water steams which in turn get contaminated.
Household products including cleaners, fresheners, laundry products, drain products, dishwashing detergent, carpet shampoos polishes and pesticide, all contain and harmful chemicals. Exposure to these chemicals generally causes headache, fatigue and burning eyes. Sometimes they may even cause skin rashes or allergies. Some products may be very harmful and cause damage to the nervous system and even liver and kidney damage.
So next time when you out buying a household cleaner make sure that you checkout the non-toxic sign on the cover and only then purchase the product. On a typical cleaning day levels of pollutants inside are much more than usual. Most of the chemicals that are present in household cleaning products are similar to those that are used in industries.
Scientists now fear that short time exposure to chemicals may in fact be more hazardous than long time exposure. Some of the common harmful chemicals include acetone which cause liver and kidney damage and also damage to a developing fetus. Then aerosol products may contain propane or carcinogen, neurotoxin and cause severe damage to the central nervous system. Lastly ammonia is a chemical that is harmful to the eye and is also a respiratory irritant. It causes a severe burning pain including corrosive damage.
Many people prefer the convenience and comfort of working from home. Whether you’re self-employed or working for a company via a “telecommute”, you’ll need a decent home office to work from. Yes, the stereotype of someone who works from home does it all on a laptop on the kitchen table (and possibly only half dressed), but to really work efficiently, you need to have a proper workspace set up.
This workspace doesn’t need to be a whole room. Sometimes, a corner of a lounge is all that is really necessary, as long as you have room for a work desk and maybe a filing cabinet or a set of drawers or so. However, never set up your home office in your bedroom. Experts say that this will not help you get a good night’s sleep, as bedrooms should be reserved for sleeping and relaxing (and making love). It’s certainly rather depressing to have your work staring you in the face first thing in the morning and last thing at night, no matter how much you like your work.
Your first consideration is good lighting. You have to make sure that you have enough light to see paperwork (or your handiwork, if your work from home involves art or craft) without straining your eyes. Natural sunlight is best – it’s cheap, easy on the eyes and cheers you up (being stuck in a sunless office on a beautiful sunny day is frustrating – but this writer has been known to print out hard copy of work to be done and head outdoors with it on days like that). If you work on a computer, it’s best if the sunlight comes over your shoulder not straight into your eyes, as direct full-frontal sunlight makes it hard to see the screen – all you’ll see is yourself reflected in the screen.
What else do you need? Warmth is another consideration – no matter how romantic the idea of being a novelist penning brilliant work while shivering in an attic is, the reality of working while cold is ghastly – chilled fingers get clumsy. If you’re so hard up that you can’t afford at least a small heater, you had better reconsider your work – perhaps this work-from-home job can be a secondary job rather than your main one. That being said, as you are by yourself, you don’t have to maintain a “corporate image” in your clothes, so you can keep warm if needed with thick, warm clothes.
A computer is a must these days for working from home. Even if you don’t use the internet and email for work purposes, a good spreadsheet program makes “doing the books” a breeze.
You will also need a reasonable desk to work on, plus space to store files or other projects. You don’t need a proper filing cabinet (unless you want one). A cupboard filled with manila folders and arch files works well. Having shelves for books and stationery is also handy, although stationery is more easily corralled inside a drawer or cupboard (and keeping your sticky tape, staplers and pens hidden where the kids can’t raid them without asking has a bonus).
Make sure your home office is nice to be in. You will spend much of your day in there, after all. Working from home means you have more latitude to get personal. Don’t forget senses other than the eyes – you can turn the stereo up and sing with it if you want to, and you can have an aromatherapy burner with your favourite essential oil, and nobody will complain.
Beware of letting coffee cups and plates pile up in your office. Yes, you will want to nibble and sip while you work (but watch out for your computer keyboard) but don’t overdo it. It’s best to leave the office for lunch; otherwise, you’ll spend the whole day in one little room, which isn’t good for your mind.
Oh yes – just because you don’t have the boss looking over your shoulder doesn’t mean that you can spend your time surfing the net or playing computer games. Self-discipline is needed!
Instead of looking in the cleaning products aisle for powders, liquids, sprays and pastes to get your home clean, hygienic, smelling nice and looking shiny, why not look in your pantry or kitchen cupboards? Making your own natural home cleaning products is an excellent way to reduce the amount of toxins in your household environment (some proprietary cleaners are really nasty), which is good for the environment, your skin and your health. And natural house cleaning products are often cheaper, too!
Most natural cleaning products use a range of basic ingredients combined in different ways – these are must-haves on your shopping list, and not just because you can scrub up your house with them. Some of them you can eat. Essential oils are other common ingredients listed in recipes for natural cleaners. While these are often included for their pleasant scent, they also have disinfectant and antiseptic properties. Recipes often list specific essential oils, but feel free to mix and match as you need – often, one fresh-smelling essential oil with antiseptic properties (e.g. pine or lemon) can be substituted for another (lavender or eucalyptus).
Natural cleaning products often call for soap or soap flakes. If you can’t find pure soap flakes in your supermarket, you can make your own by grating a bar of cheap soap with as little extra this and that (e.g. fragrance) as possible – or even try making your own. Alternatively, you can try the penny-pinching method of saving thin slivers of bar soap and melting or grating these to make your own cleaning products.
Some basic recipes:
General cleaning paste (non-scratching):
* 1 cup soap flakes
* 2 cups powdered chalk or diatomaceous earth (try a sports shop – chalk is used by gymnasts and diatomaceous earth is used in swimming pool filters)
* 1 cup bicarbonate of soda (baking soda)
* 6 T glycerine.
Pulverise the soap flakes to powder in a blender or with a pestle and mortar. Mix in the baking soda and chalk, then add in the glycerine to make a thick paste. It won’t look pretty, but it does a great job. Store in a wide screw-top jar to keep it from drying out.
Glass cleaner:
* 1 cup vinegar
* 1 cup methylated spirits, isopropyl alcohol or strong spirits (e.g. vodka)
* 1 t lavender essential oil
Pour all ingredients into a pump-action spray dispenser. Shake together for a minute or so. This can be used straight away, or it can be left to sit for a week to allow the essential oil to blend thoroughly with the alcohol and vinegar. Spray onto glass and wipe off with a soft lint-free cloth or scrunched up newspaper. The essential oil will help kill mould spores and germs. This mixture can also be used as a disinfectant, as the essential oil and alcohol are strong germ-killers.
Odour-absorbing fridge cleaner:
* 1 cup baking soda
* 10 drops essential oil of your choice (suggested: lemon or grapefruit)
* water to mix
Combine the baking soda and the essential oil. Add enough water to make a stiff paste. Rub on with a soft cloth, then rinse off with a clean, damp cloth.
Brass polish:
* 1 cup ordinary table salt
* vinegar to mix
Combine the salt with enough vinegar to make a stiff paste. Coat the brass with the paste, then leave it to work for about five minutes. Rub off with a soft damp cloth, using a little elbow grease as needed.
Fabric softener:
* 1 cup vinegar
* 10 drops essential oil (optional)
Combine the vinegar and essential oil and shake together well. Add to the final rinse. This mixture not only adds a delicate scent to the washing as well as softening the fabric.
Lavender is a traditional scent for adding to laundry and acts as a moth repellent. This recipe will help prevent nappy rash if added to a load of cloth nappies, as the vinegar neutralises the rash-causing ammonia in urine.
Pre-wash soaking treatment
* 2 cups soap flakes
* ½ cup glycerine
* 2 t essential oil of eucalyptus (in this recipe, you cannot substitute this for another type, as eucalyptus oil has stain-removing properties)
* hot water (about 1 ½ litres)
Add the glycerine and soap flakes to the hot water and stir together. When it cools, it will form a grey-white translucent gel. Add the essential oil once the mixture has cooled. Store in a screw-top jar or bottle. To use, add about half a cupful to a bucket of lukewarm water (not hot) and soak stained items overnight. Alternatively, rub a tablespoon or so into the stained area and leave it to work for about an hour before washing the item.
