Once you have started using a deep freeze, you will not want to live without one. Having a deep freeze means that you will be able to store up edibles during times of plenty (whether this plenty means a bumper crop in the garden or some top-notch specials at the supermarket) for when times are tough. However, if you’ve got one, you have to treat it properly in order to get the best out of it.
First of all: some basic energy-saving tips. Don’t put hot food in the freezer, but allow it to cool down first so the freezing unit doesn’t have to work overtime to get things down to the right temperature. Also, a full freezer is more efficient – frozen meat and containers of soup don’t rush out the door when it opens, but air does. The new air will then have to be cooled.
You will also have to defrost the deep freeze regularly – about once a year is enough for most people with busy lives to lead. The main thing is to defrost the freezer before the ice builds up to a level that stops you shutting the door properly. A defrosting session as part of your domestic cleaning London is also a good chance to check through your frozen goods and make sure that nothing’s been sitting there too long.
How long is too long in the freezer? Leaving aside the palaeontologists who claim that mammoth meat frozen since the ice age is perfectly preserved and edible, if you don’t mind a little “freezer burn”, here are some rough guidelines:
Fruit and vegetables: 8 months (although they are still good after two years, from personal experience with a batch of frozen stewed plums). Freezing slows down enzyme reactions rather than stopping them, so blanching fruit and veg lightly or cooking them before they go into the freezer helps them stay good for longer. Berries are excellent to freeze and can be kept safely for up to a year.
Meat: up to 1 year, but less if the meat has been sliced or minced. For things you buy frozen (e.g. fish fingers), check the expiry date on the packet.
Eggs: Don’t freeze them at all – they can’t handle it.
Dairy products: up to 9 months, depending on what it is. If you have frozen a bottle of milk, wait until it thaws completely before drinking or using it, as the water part of it thaws out last.
Baked goods: three months for bread and the like, but biscuits can stay frozen for a year safely.
Some things don’t freeze well. Lettuces, bananas and all egg products shouldn’t be frozen, as they turn quite peculiar when they thaw out. It is also unwise to freeze stuffed poultry, as the stuffing can sometimes fail to freeze for some time and turn nasty in the process.
Don’t freeze anything that was in bad condition before it went in – it will still be bad when it comes out and you will have wasted valuable freezer space.
Make sure that you thaw out items you want to use properly before you start cooking them, especially meat. The exceptions here are berries or cut up pieces of fruit to be used in muffins, as they keep their shape for longer if they go into the mixture frozen; meat to be put through a mincer, which should be partially thawed, as it grinds more efficiently when half frozen; and frozen vegetables to be boiled, steamed or cooked in the microwave. Never put something back in the freezer once it’s thawed out.
If a power cut happens, your freezer will be good for a few days before things start thawing. Keep the door closed to keep the chill in for as long as possible. After about four days, things will begin to thaw. If the power is still out and your freezer was full of meat, this is the moment to get out your barbecue or light a fire, and to call all your neighbours around for a king-sized feast. It will cheer you all up during a crisis (which is what must be going on if the power has been out this long) so it won’t be a total waste of money.
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Why would anyone want to make their own bath products when there are so many lovely products with delicious scents available on the market today? Well, it could be because you have sensitive skin and commercial products always make your skin itchy and uncomfortable, and you want to know exactly what is going on your skin. Or you could just like making things as a hobby – home-made bath products make great gifts and they could earn you a little if you sell them at a stall or something of that kind.
For best results, use proper essential oils rather than cheap fragrant oils. The “el cheapo” fragrances are artificial and don’t have the aromatherapeutic properties of real essential oils. When choosing essential oils to use for making bath products, let your nose be your best guide and choose what you like best. Having said that, remember to follow all precautions if you are pregnant or if the products will be used by small children. Experiment a little to find a blend of oils that works for you.
Bath oil: This is one of the simplest bath products to make. Simply mix about ten or so drops of the essential oil(s) of your choice in a bottle with some light oil such as almond oil, sunflower oil or even the sort of light oil you’d use for cooking such as soya oil or canola oil. Shake the oil together with the essential oil and leave it to “sit” for a little before using. You can tint the oil lightly with food colouring, but don’t use too much, as it can stain the bath.
Bath salts: Another easy one. Use either plain table salt or Epsom salts. Again, mix ten or so drops of essential oil(s) with about a cup or so of the salt. Stir together thoroughly. Once again, you can add a drop or two of food colouring to tint the bath salts. This mixture can be decanted into a pretty bottle or container (you can soak off the label from a jam jar or another suitable bottle with a paper label and re-use it for this).
Bath bombs are a bit trickier. To make a bath bomb, mix 3 T of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) with 1½ T of citric acid. Add about 10 drops of essential oil(s). Mix together well, then add a tiny bit of water to make a stiff paste you can mould and shape. You can also add a tiny touch of food colouring, powdered petals or even some salt for a bit of extra. Stir well then shape it and leave it to dry. Store in an airtight container until use. In a similar way you can also make your own domestic cleaning London products.
Bath bags need two things to be made up. Firstly, you will need the bag itself. For your own use, you can just tie the contents of the bag inside an ordinary face flannel. But if you want to give them as gifts or sell them, you will need something a little fancier. Cut up a hand towel and sew it into a bag, remembering to hem the top opening. Cut a few little holes near to the top of the bag going around the circumference and thread a ribbon through, leaving enough ribbon to pull it tight. Next, mix up the ingredients and put them into the bath bag before tying it shut. Milk powder and oatmeal make excellent soap-free cleansers, and you can also add minerals salts, the essential oils (of course), ground almonds or some dried herbs. To use a bath bag, simply drop it in the bath as it is filling. This will release some of the scent and cleaners in the bag into the water. Use the bath bag as you would soap – the flannel has excellent exfoliating properties. You will only get two (at most) uses out of the bath bag contents. Shake the old contents out, preferably into a compost heap, then wash the bag thoroughly after turning it inside out. Then refill for another use.
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If you ask people to give a list of ten fruits, there’s a very high chance that they’ll list bananas – if you ask for a list in alphabetical order, bananas nearly always are used for B (rather than blueberries, breadfruit or blackberries). Most of us love the smell of bananas – some list the scent of banana as a favourite smell – and they’ve been the subject of numerous slapstick jokes involving the slipperiness of the peels.
Bananas are the fruit from trees of the Musa genus, with several species being used for food. “Cavendish” is the variety used most widely used as a dessert or sweet banana, with its Latin name being Musa acuminate.
Bananas are a rich source of complex carbohydrates –they have triple the amount of complex carbs compared to most (if not all) other fruits. This is why they make a great snack and a good supply of long-lasting energy.
A banana provides enough energy for the average person to walk two kilometres.
Bananas are usually picked green and the ripening process is hurried up by washing ethylene gas over them. The flavour is improved, however, if the bananas are “ungassed” and allowed to ripen by themselves. However, the ethylene gas is not harmful – apples give off this gas naturally. For this reason, if you want bananas to last longer without over-ripening, don’t store them with apples. You can buy special fruit bowls that have a special hook for bananas above the main part of the bowl so they don’t spoil quickly. Conversely, if you have bought bananas a little green and want to hurry them along a bit, pop them in an airtight container with some apples and let the natural ethylene from the apples ripen them.
Bananas are rich in vitamins and minerals. Unlike many other fruits, they contain all six major vitamin groups, being particularly rich in vitamin B6 (one banana can provide roughly one third of an adult’s recommended daily intake). They are also a rich source of potassium, which is essential for healthy muscle tissue.
Bananas contain serotonin, which promotes sleep and is also a natural anti-depressant.
Bananas can be frozen. The skin will turn black, but the flesh will be fine. A delicious (and reasonably healthy) snack for children and adults involved skewering bananas (halved or whole) and dipping them in melted chocolate before freezing.
Because of their high vitamin, carbohydrate and mineral content, mashed bananas are excellent “first foods” for infants just starting on solids. They’re easy to digest, too. Only very few people are allergic to bananas so it is usually a safe food to give babies.
Banana stains are difficult to remove – unlike other fruit spills and splashes, they don’t just wash off in the regular wash. Suggestions to remove banana stains from clothing include dabbing it with tea tree oil before washing, rubbing it with a natural domestic cleaner London like lemon juice (which is a mild bleach) or rubbing with a mixture of glycerine and water. Washing with a biological washing powder in warm water can work. With white clothing and an old stain (baby clothes spring to mind), chlorine bleach can be used.
Banana peels can be used as an emergency shoe polish as it contains a natural lubricant – yes, the same lubricant that makes the banana peels so slippery. Banana peels are also supposed to be good for buffing leather upholstery and even for cleaning silverware. Do a patch test on an inconspicuous spot first.
Banana peels are also rich in nutrients. Roses, in particular, like banana peels, so instead of throwing out your banana peels into the rubbish, tuck the peels around the roots of your rose bushes. At the very least, compost those banana peels – they’re so full of goodies for your garden it’s a shame to waste them on a landfill.
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One of the many ways to save energy and to reduce your carbon footprint is to look at the way that your home is heated. From a natural living perspective and from a sustainability point of view, wood fires have a lot going for them and may possibly be one of the most eco-friendly and natural ways of keeping warm when it’s a bit chilly. Wood fires certainly get the tick of approval from Friends of the Earth.
Advantages of wood fires:
* Buying firewood to burn as fuel encourages people to plant more trees and grow them in managed woodlots. This in turn reduces the atmospheric carbon dioxide held responsible for global warming/climate change. Many of these trees planted for firewood are coppiced, a practice that involves felling the tree but leaving enough of the stump in the ground and allowing it to re-sprout and grow new trunks, albeit thinner ones.
* When wood is burned, not all the carbon that has been stored in the wood is released back into the atmosphere to contribute to your carbon footprint. Some of the carbon will become soot inside the chimney, some will become charcoal and some will become ash. These can all be returned to the soil rather than being released to the atmosphere.
* The carbon that wood fires release to the atmosphere isn’t new carbon – it was in the atmosphere a few years ago before the tree absorbed it and turned it into wood. This is in complete contrast to coal, gas and anything that relies on petrol (including electric heaters that are powered by petrol-fired power stations) – these all take underground sumps of carbon and release it into the air.
* Wood ash is not particularly toxic, if at all. Unlike coal ash, which is bad news for disposal, wood ash is very beneficial for the garden, as it can be used to treat overly acidic soils. Potatoes love it. You can also sprinkle wood ash around young plants to protect them from the depredations of snails and slugs – these pests hate crawling over ash.
* If you’re concerned about EMFs (electromagnetic frequencies) being released in quantity, wood fires have none of these, in contrast to electric heaters.
* Wood fires give off a warm, natural source of light. However, attempting to read or the like by firelight alone is not good for your eyes.
* If the power goes off, you’ll still be able to cook and keep warm if you have a wood fire.
* As the old saying goes, firewood warms you three times: once when you chop it, once when you stack it and once when you burn it. This is a good form of exercise.
* Wood fires can make use of free wood. Things such as dead, broken branches take on a whole new perspective: they’re not rubbish to be got rid of; they’re a valuable resource. Driftwood on the beach is another free source of wood.
However, wood fires do have some disadvantages:
* Some areas do not permit fires as a form of heating because the smoke (which is less noxious than coal smoke or car exhausts) lowers air quality.
* Wood fires may not be the most efficient form of heating, especially open fires. A lot of the heat can be lost up the chimney and wasted. However, some designs of log burners are more efficient (and, if you’re lucky, in older homes, you might have a wetback design that heats your water as well). These don’t give off much light, though.
* Fires can be more of a hazard, especially with an open fire. Some types of wood are more hazardous than others, as they crack and pop, spitting out embers. However, common sense around fires and regular chimney sweeping will keep the fire where you want it, burning only the wood you want it to. Very often when you have your chimney swept, stains may occur on your carpet, so bear in mind you may need a professional carpet cleaning straight after that. A fire guard should be used for any heating source to protect young children, and an open fire will need a spark guard as well.
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It’s funny, but have you noticed that when people give household related presents (e.g. as wedding gifts or at a bridal shower), they hardly ever give what are traditionally called tools (of course, any manufactured item used to do a certain job is technically a tool. In this article, the word “tool” will be used to refer to the sort of thing that was traditionally used by men in the “bad old days” before men got into the kitchen and women got underneath the bonnet of the car). You will find people giving appliances such as coffee makers, toasters and knives, but you hardly ever see people giving saws, jacks and wrenches.
But even if you’re not a do-it-yourself person, you should always have certain tools in your house. There are some things it is just plain silly to call out a handyman (handyperson!) to do, as they are easy to do yourself, as long as you have the right tools.
Here is a basic list of tools that no household should be without. I certainly wouldn’t!
A screwdriver. This will be used to replace and/or tighten a huge amount of things around your home, from door handles to saucepan lids. Straight screwdrivers also make good levers for opening stubborn tins. Have both types handy – Philips and flat. Magnetised screwdrivers are good, as they hold the screw in place so it doesn’t drop down somewhere awkward. Some very handy screwdrivers have a shaft that has a Phillips head at one end and a flat head at the other. If you have to deal with small screws (e.g. fixing printers into ports in computers), have a miniature set of screwdrivers on hand as well as larger ones.
A spanner or adjustable wrench. Once again, you will use this to tighten and loosen all sorts of things – I have used mine mostly for putting legs on beds and tables when moving house. The adjustable sort is better in some ways than a full socket or wrench set, as you don’t have to poke around finding exactly the right one for the nut you’re tightening.
A hammer. Use this for putting in nails to hang pictures on the wall. You can also crush rose stems before putting them in water to make them last longer, and the side of the hammer can be used as a meat tenderiser (it’s very easy to wash up and is probably dishwasher safe).
A plunger or plumber’s mate. Baths, sinks and toilets all get blocked at some time or another. Sinks and baths seem to be the worst offenders, as hair and soap go down quite regularly. A plunger will get things going again in most cases.
Pliers, especially the sort with a wire-cutter included. All sorts of things can be held together with a bit of wire as a stop-gap measure. Depending on the type you get, you can also take the outer casing off an electrical wire (if you’re rewiring a plug – don’t do other electrical stuff yourself, apart from changing fuses) or cut off the head of a fishhook that some idiot has got through their finger.
A craft knife/Stanley knife. Often, you need more precision than a kitchen knife can give, but need something tougher than a pair of scissors.
A vice or clamp. If you have to repair anything that needs pressure put on it, you will need a vice or clamp to hold it steady for a long time while the glue sets.
This list, of course, is just a basic one and is not designed for a handyman London. Other things like saws, soldering irons, Allan keys, drills, sharpeners, grinders and sanders can also be added. A handyman should have even more than that.
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Type 1 diabetes (also known as juvenile onset diabetes or insulin-diabetes) seems to strike out of the blue. Unlike the other, more common form of diabetes (Type 2 or adult onset), being diagnosed with this condition isn’t dependent on what you have eaten in the past.
This article is not supposed to take the place of the advice you get from your doctor and specialists, but it is written from the perspective of someone who has an insulin-diabetic child. And yes – this medical condition does have something to do with the domestic cleaning and keeping the house organised!
Firstly, regarding cooking and reducing sugar in your meals. Your dietician (chances are you will have a session with a dietician shortly after you or your child is diagnosed) will give you the best advice on what to eat. But, personally speaking, I have found that it’s not that hard to keep cooking the same things as normal – just reduce the sugar. You can still cook cakes and muffins quite easily. I’ve found that you can halve the amount of sugar in most recipes and still have the result taste good in the end. Here are a few low-sugar treat foods that are good for children’s parties:
Instead of regular icing on birthday cakes(the sort that uses icing sugar and water or icing sugar and egg white), use cream cheese icing. This is only 50% sugar instead of nearly 100% sugar. The slightly acidic flavour goes with most basic cakes, including chocolate, and you can colour it as usual. Yes, it’s higher in fat than regular icing, but it is lower in sugar.
Make your own ice-cream by mixing whipped cream and a little sugar with fruit puree. Blackcurrants work brilliantly, as do other berry fruits. You could also try freezing yoghurt.
Never add sugar to meat, even as a marinade. You don’t need it at all.
If you have an insulin dependent person, you will find very quickly that the process of testing blood sugar levels and injections creates a lot of debris. You will have to deal with the little test strips, the foil packets (and other packaging) that the test strips came in, syringes, the caps off the syringes and all other packaging for the syringes. While the testing strips and the packaging may be able to be disposed of in the regular rubbish system, the syringes can be a health hazard. Where I live, the local council provides proper “sharps” bins for people on the needle exchange or the methadone programme for drug rehabilitation, but doesn’t provide them for diabetics (unfair, really, as diabetics can’t help having to use insulin, but drugs are a deliberate choice). We have the choice of paying for proper bins or supplying our own. The best substitute sharps bins are old containers for dishwasher powder or bleach (bottles made from Number 2 plastic – look inside the recycling symbol to check). However, you may be luckier about being provided with sharps bins – find out what applies locally.
The little bits from doing blood tests seem to go everywhere. Corral them in their own mini bin (a one-litre yoghurt container works well). Keep this mini bin near where you keep your insulin gear.
Speaking of the gear, it’s best to dedicate a special cupboard or box to the equipment to keep it all together. Insulin vials that aren’t in everyday use will need to be kept in the fridge, as will the hypo/glucagon kits, but everything else should be easily obtainable.
When you go out and about, it’s important to take your blood glucose monitor and some “quick fix” form of sugar with you for every trip (usually jelly beans). For longer trips when you’re likely to go out for a meal, you may need to take your insulin as well. Have a series of containers – a small one with the testing kit and the jelly beans that goes in a slightly larger one that contains the insulin and syringes (or a pen).
Don’t carry loose jelly beans in your pockets. The sugar goes everywhere and the jelly beans get covered in fluff. They are also a nuisance if they go through the washing machine.
To be able to keep a proper record of blood glucose levels during the day, keep a pen or pencil in the container that holds your insulin, preferably tied to your record book.
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Natural cleaning and natural products aren’t just limited to your home and to your own grooming. You can also use natural recipes and products to look after your pet. Because if an animal such as a cat or dog isn’t part of nature and the natural world, what is? And your pet is just as affected by toxins in the home environment as you are, if not more so (what some of our domestic cleaning products and “air fresheners” smell like to the highly sensitive nose of a dog doesn’t bear thinking about).
Flea control is the one aspect of pet care that involves the most toxins. The average flea control treatment contains a high amount of toxins – it poisons the fleas after all. This is why the sort of flea powder or liquid you can buy over the counter at the supermarket – or even at the pet shop – often has warnings not to use it on puppies or kittens under a certain age. A much better solution is to use herbal remedies. The best flea remedy by far is pennyroyal, either as an essential oil or by using the dried (or fresh) herb. Pennyroyal’s scientific name is Mentha pulgefugium, which means “mint that makes fleas flee” and it is very easy to grow in damp, shady parts of the garden, so there’s no excuse for any pet owner not to have and use this handy herb. Simply pick a sprig or two and rub it over your pet’s coat to deter fleas, and tuck a few sprigs (maybe the ones you’ve already used to rub on the pet’s coat) into your pet’s bedding. Regular vacuuming is another way to keep fleas to a minimum, if not totally under control, as the powerful air currents and turbulence created by a vacuum cleaner kill fleas. If you use essential oil of pennyroyal, dab a bit on some cotton wool and/or onto the bristles of a grooming brush, and groom your pet as normal. This will transfer the oil into the animal’s fur and thus get rid of the fleas.
Your pet should live as normal a life as possible. Cats should never be de-clawed. This is a cruel and unnatural practice, even if the declawing is done under anaesthetic. Cats need claws to defend themselves and to climb, and their climbing instincts will still be there even if their claws aren’t, and he/she will suffer falls and a lot of frustration. If you want to keep your sofa and curtains safe, provide a scratching post if your cat can’t get outside to sharpen his/her claws. The scratching post should be covered with a fabric or material that they can get their claws decently into – this writer’s cats find the dense foam used for exercise mats irresistible for scratching. Encourage your cat to use it by judicious addition of pennyroyal.
Another feline instinct – natural behaviour for a cat – is hunting. To prevent birds and lizards being butchered and left around your house, put a collar on your cat with a bell. Make sure the collar is elasticated so if it gets hooked while the cat is climbing or jumping, it will not strangle the cat. The bell does mean that the cat won’t be able to act as a rodent control agent, however.
You can make your own pet food that avoids the additives and preservatives that are found in many commercial pet foods. All you need is a quick trip down to the supermarket, the greengrocer and/or the butcher’s shop. Cats need more protein in their diet, so don’t attempt to feed a cat on the same home-made pet food as you do a dog. The easiest home-made cat food is plain mince, but to give the cat a bit more variety, add some chopped organ meat and maybe some chicken meat – cooked is OK but raw is also good for cats and has a higher level of nutrients. And don’t forget raw fish… cat heaven!
Dogs can have a wider variety of items in their diet, including some starch and vegetables along with meat. Raw bones and raw meat are delicious for a dog and close to the diet of its wild-living relatives, but organ meat should be cooked before feeding to a dog. Large cooked bones may splinter when chewed, but raw ones are splendid – and they are also good for the dog’s teeth – they almost act as a toothbrush. Good vegetables and starch to add to a dog’s diet are rice, potatoes, pumpkin and peas, but avoid onions, too much wheat flour (a bit is OK) or anything containing chocolate. Dairy food is OK to give to dogs (cats should only have it in moderation – water is the best drink for cats), but don’t overdo it. You can also mix table scraps into a dog’s regular food – they will love this!
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The house described in this article is fictional – I hope. This is the Hygiene House of Horror where the folk who live in it have some foul habits that seem to suggest that they want to catch a case of Delhi-belly or show off how strong their immune systems. Don your rubber gloves and a mask, and let’s go and have a look.
Kitchen first, as this is where most hygiene horrors happen.
For a start off, this kitchen isn’t just where people eat: the cat is fed in this room, and the kitty litter tray is sitting underneath the kitchen bench. That’s what you can smell. How anyone can bear to have cat faeces with their risk of toxoplasmosis (especially nasty for pregnant women) in the kitchen beats me. And leftover catfood always attracts flies.
Don’t feed the cats in the kitchen and keep litter trays outdoors. And what is that cat doing sitting on the table or roaming along the kitchen bench? Licking the plates clean?
Don’t let animals onto your food preparing/eating surfaces or to eat from your plates (exceptions are made in fairy tales for talking frogs). Sometimes cats will jump up and try, but this should be discouraged with shouting and water pistols.
This kitchen doesn’t stop with animal horrors. The rubbish bin is overflowing, again attracting flies and vermin. And an open rubbish bin reeks, especially with organic rubbish inside. Organic rubbish should be composted, and given its own special bin. Neither the compost bin nor the rubbish bin should be allowed to overflow, and compost bins should be scrubbed out regularly to prevent mould.
Now, I know the kitchen sink is just the right size and height for a baby bath, and has a nice wide space beside it that’s safe to put a baby on for changing and dressing before and after, but think what’s on that baby’s skin… and what’s in the nappy. And you’re going to wash your dishes and the cutlery that you put in your mouth in that sink, or at the very least, you’ll wash vegetables in it. Need I say more?
Hold your nose and open the fridge. Try not to be sick. In spite of the low temperatures, some of the items in this fridge are getting slimy with orangey-grey mould. Some things that are well past their expiry date have been pushed to the back. And the meat is right up the top of the fridge. Every package is open – cat food, pate, butter… Raw meat should go down the bottom in case it drips on food to be eaten raw, items should be kept in airtight containers so they don’t spread smells and so they don’t dry out. And you are not being thrifty keeping old food that has gone off. Throw those leftovers or half-eaten bananas out and do not wait for your domestic cleaning lady to come and clean the fridge for you. Start with this tisk right away.
Now for the bathroom… Not so bad if the toilet isn’t located in the same room as the toothbrushes. But if you have it all in one room, then keep the toothbrushes under cover, and the toothpaste too. Every time you flush the loo, a fine spray of what’s in the toilet bowl flies out. Anything that is going to go near your face should be as far away from the toilet as possible and preferably in a container. These toothbrushes are sitting in a cup filled with nameless grey sludge that has gradually accumulated, and this cup is on the vanity unit right beside where the spare toilet paper rolls are stored within arm’s reach of the loo itself. People put these in their mouths? If you use a toothbrush holder, clean it out. Yes, you rinse your toothbrush, but little bits of saliva always manage to escape, and saliva contains a lot of bacteria.
Remove that fuzzy cloth mat from around the toilet. Yes, it’s nice for feet on cold mornings, but for some reason, males in particular can’t seem to help getting urine somewhere other than the toilet (some in larger amounts than others, especially younger ones) and some females aren’t completely tidy, either. Besides, remember that fine spray coming out of the toilet when it flushes. Get rid of that mat, as it just gets filthy. The same goes for that knitted toilet seat cover, even if your grandmother made it for you.
One quick peek into the bedroom before we bolt for a breath of fresh, clean air. Is that a dog sleeping on the bed? Pets should not be encouraged to sleep on the bed. You have probably seen what your dog rolls in and where it puts its paws and nose. Do you really want that on your pillow? Cats should also be deterred, but cats, being stubborn and independent, are harder to deter from somewhere soft and warm like a bed.
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While it may not feel like it at the moment, spring will come again. But when it comes, will you be ready to take advantage of the sunnier weather? Is your picnic hamper clean and ready for action. Will you have a nice surprise come springtime or will you find something not fit to put food in.
Of course, if you don’t clean a picnic hamper properly before you put it away, what may greet you come the first picnic-worthy day of spring may be a horrible mess. This especially applies if you have one of those plastic insulated hampers that keep food chilled (the sort the Australians call Eskies) and also, to some extent, to the old-fashioned wicker hamper lined with cloth.
The horrible mess is likely to be mould and mildew, and there is nothing for it but to swab it out with neat vinegar and expose it to strong sunshine, or even to get a new wicker picnic hamper if it’s gone too far and the mildew has got into the wood. Bad luck – remember to clean the new one out before you put it away.
To clean out a wicker picnic hamper, you have two main jobs. The first is to clean out any smears, while the second is to clean out any crumbs. Wicker hampers don’t have quite as many problems with mould and mildew, as the wicker provides preventative ventilation, but it can happen if you give bacteria and mould spores something to grow on. The first step is to turn the hamper upside-down and give it a good shake to get the worst of the crumbs out. If you have a cloth lining inside the hamper, see if it comes out. If it does, you’re in luck. Just give it a quick spin in the washing machine on the gentle cycle or else handwash it. If it doesn’t, your first step is to use the vacuum cleaner to suck out the loose crumbs that linger in the seams. You can do this task when doing your weekly domestic cleaning.
Next, deal with the smears. Use a sponge dipped in warm soapy water to get rid of jam, etc. However, if some idiot spilled sardines on the inside, you may need to use a scrubbing brush and more soap. Sprinkle baking soda inside the hamper to absorb smells, then brush or vacuum this out when it’s dried. Use the sponge and scrubbing brush method for cleaning smears out of a wicker picnic basket with no lining (crumbs won’t be much of a problem).
To clean the plastic insulated type of picnic basket, the easiest way is to half fill it with warm water and a little of whatever you use to wash the dishes with. Then just wash the inside out with a dishbrush, then rinse as normal. It’s after this part that the real fun begins. It’s a nice, airtight, insulated container, and if you shut the lid and tuck it away with the slightest bit of moisture in, you will be faced with hideous orange slime next time you open it. Or brown slime. Or grey slime. So it’s vital to dry it out thoroughly before storing it.
Storing this type of plastic picnic hamper also has to be done properly. It’s best not to store it with the lid fully closed just in case you haven’t got all of the moisture out. Wedge a bit of newspaper under the lid to raise it slightly. This will prevent dust and dirt falling in but will provide ventilation. Alternatively, store it upside-down with the lid off. If you store it right way up with the lid off, then you may have to dust it out before the next picnic – but a damp rag will fix that without any trouble.
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Nobody starts out by meaning to create a cluttered home. Whether we’re starting afresh after the end of tenancy cleaning and a carpet cleaning, a New Year’s resolution or a move, we all have visions of clear spaces, tidy shelves and floors and order. But we all know what happens before long if we’re not careful: chaos, clutter, mess and all sorts of oddments piled in the most peculiar places (example from this writer’s house: jelly beans collecting in the laundry).
How does this happen? According to British decluttering expert Sue Kay, ten bad habits prevent us from reaching our mental goals of order. Break these bad habits and you will see a dramatic reduction – or even elimination – of clutter in your home.
Habit 1: Procrastination. You know how this goes. “I’ll just pop this on the kitchen bench for now and deal with it later.” “I’ll find a home for that eventually, but in the meantime, I’ll put it on the bedside cabinet.” “You can give that a temporary home behind the sofa until we find a better place for it.” “Put it in the spare room to be fixed when I get around to it”. In a perfect world, we would always be able to put things away straight away and fix things as soon as they break. In the world that we do have, assigning some time to mending, sorting and dealing with temporary arrangements is a better way to stop the “just for now” piles building up.
Habit 2: Neck or Nothing. One of the big obstacles that often gets in the way of people having a decluttering session (or even calling in an expert) is a fear that minimalism is the goal and that the expert will leave you with a set of possessions that would make a monk’s lifestyle look lavish. This is not the case.
You do not have to reduce your worldly goods to subsistence level. While you may have to get rid of the out-of-focus photos, you don’t have to get rid of the old daguerreotype of your great-great-grandparents. While you may have to offload ancient magazines and the books your children grew out of years ago and hate the sight of, you don’t have to get rid of your favourite copy of Lord of the Rings. It’s not all or nothing. It’s about getting rid of inessentials.
Habit 3: Everything is equally valuable. While this principle is true of people in society, it isn’t true of the things cramming your storage space. While one person’s trash is another person’s treasure (and I therefore won’t presume to tell you what items of yours are to be treasured), sometimes trash is just trash. Prioritise your possessions. Keep what’s valuable, but get rid of the things that you honestly are never going to do anything with.
Habit 4: Getting distracted. You’re sorting the books, the junk mail or the old magazines. Something catches your eye. Next thing you know, you’ve spent half an hour reading that ancient magazine and have made no progress. Or you’re going through your clothes and you stop to try on half a dozen outfits and spend ages seeing how all your accessories go with it. In The Screwtape Letters, C.S. Lewis had the senior devil Screwtape recommending this sort of behaviour as an excellent form of tempting humans into wasting their time and energy so they do neither what they ought to do nor what they want to do. To fight this temptation, set yourself a time limit to achieve a reasonable goal, and/or enlist a friend to help you or to whom you can be accountable.
Habit 5: Self-sabotage. If someone has been pressuring you to declutter, you’re in a bad mood or you don’t really want to get rid of things (possibly because of Habit 2), some people sabotage the efforts they do make. They throw out something that really is valuable which they later regret – and use this experience as a reason for never touching the clutter again. Or they set themselves impossibly hard goals. They call themselves names. All this will create a bad association with decluttering. Instead, set yourself reasonable goals, be honest and give yourself little rewards (but not by buying more unnecessary stuff) for achieving these goals. Suitable rewards can include temporary things such as a nice bunch of flowers, dancing in the space you’ve managed to clear, having a moment of nostalgia reading old love letters or just sitting back for five minutes listening to music and contemplating the view out of the window once you’ve cleared all the junk off the windowsill.
Habit 6: Multi-tasking. This is an asset in all other aspects of life, but don’t try to declutter and talk on the phone/deal with kid’s homework/vacuum the lounge. It is better to do a little bit of concentrated decluttering lasting ten minutes than an hour of trying to declutter and other things simultaneously. Rather than testing and chucking out dead biros and stationery while talking on the phone, do this while you’re waiting for an anti-virus program to finish running (the operative word there was “talking” on the phone. If you’re on hold, however, this might be an excellent time to delete old emails or test biros while you doodle).
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