TweetAre you checking through the items on your laundry shelves and seeing if you need to stock up on stain removal products? You never know – even if your commercial products have run out, you may have plenty of stain removal products in your house already without knowing it. Or you might consider switching to these unusual alternatives, especially if you are looking for more environmentally friendly, less toxic methods of cleaning your house.
This list is an A-Z of more unusual domestic cleaning products and what they’re good for. How many have you got in your cupboards?
* Alcohol. This includes methylated spirits, rubbing alcohol and strong drinkable (?) spirits like vodka and whisky. These are great as disinfectants and for removing ink-based stains. Alcohol is your best friend for removing permanent pen stains. Some varieties of hairspray contain alcohol and can be used to remove stains.
* Baking soda: This is such a safe, useful and versatile cleaner it’s a wonder that commercial cleaning products ever made it onto the market. It absorbs smells and is an all-purpose cleaner.
* Bread: White bread (preferably stale) can be used to rub greasy marks off wallpaper and as an improvised sponge for spills and slips at the table.
* Cigarette ash: This can be mixed to a paste with lemon juice and/or linseed oil and used to remove stains from wooden furniture. However, smoking is an appallingly dirty habit and you’ll do more for the cleanliness of your home (to say nothing of your health) if you quit.
* Denture cleaners: These are good for cleaning more than just false teeth. Leave in the toilet bowl overnight to soak out stains, or use it as a soaking solution for white cottons.
* Epsom salts: Good for cleaning stains and spills off floors.
* Lemon juice: a mild bleach, especially if you soak a stain in lemon juice and pop it into sunshine. This works on hair to put highlights in blonde hair and is reputed to fade freckles and other brown marks on the skin.
* Meat tenderiser: This contains enzymes that break down proteins. Use it for any protein based stain (in cold water) such as blood or egg.
* Milk: While some milk products can stain, milk itself can be used to soak out ballpoint pen marks from fabric. Milk added to water is also good for soaking leather that has been accidentally splashed with salt water (salty water can wreck leather). Wash the item in cold water after removing the stain to get rid of the milk.
* Onions: These make a cleansing polish for leather goods, including shoes.
* Potatoes: The starchy juice of a raw potato can be used as a stain removal stick. You can also use a cut up potato and baking soda (or salt) to clean rust stains off metal cookware.
* Salt: Use salt in the water when soaking protein stains. Salt also absorbs liquid stains – it’s an old remedy for dealing with spills of red wine on tablecloths or carpets. Salt can also act as a mordant for dyes – if you have bought new fabric for dressmaking, put it through the washing machine with salt but not washing powder to help set the dye in (you can also do this with home-dyed items).
* Soda water: The effervescence of soda water means that it floats the stuff doing the staining up to the top. An old remedy for wine stains on ties, and for most other things that can get spilled at the table – including blood.
* White vinegar: a mild bleach that works wonders on mildew and on wine stains.
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TweetChandeliers add glamour and grace to a room because of their innate beauty and intricate design. The greater the intricacy of the design, the greater the beauty and the more a chandelier adds to the dŽcor of a room. But that is where the problem lies. The more intricate and eye catching it is, the more dirt and grime on it will be noticed. Cleaning a chandelier can be one of the most difficult aspects of house cleaning, but there are some short cuts you can take to make the job much easier. Please note that what is suggested here will not take the place of disassembling a chandelier and cleaning it piece by piece, but is enough to remove surface dirt and keep it looking clean and nice.
There are two quick ways of cleaning a chandelier – the wet and dry methods.
The fasts way is the wet method. For this you will need a step ladder, plastic sandwich bags, rubber bands, a tarpaulin, and chandelier cleaner or any other cleaning spray which will drip dry without leaving any marks.
Here’s how to go about it.
* Make sure the chandelier is off and the bulbs are cool
* Spread the tarpaulin on the floor below the chandelier so that it will catch any liquid that drips off
* Set up the ladder so that it is stable and you can reach the chandelier easily
* Climb up the ladder and fit a sandwich bag over each bulb, using a rubber band to tightly secure the bags below each bulb
* Spray the complete chandelier with the cleaning spray. Use it liberally to cover every surface
* Wait till the cleaning fluid stop dripping and carefully gather up the tarp, making sure nothing spills on the floor
* You’re done.
If you don’t have or don’t want to use a cleaning spray, you can do a dry clean. For this you will need glass cleaner and a few soft microfiber cloths.
* As in the wet cleaning, place the tarp to catch any dirt that may fall from the chandelier, make sure it is off and the bulbs are cool and set up the ladder.
* Start working from the top of the chandelier and move down.
* Spray the glass cleaner on one of the cloths and wipe a piece of glass.
* Use another piece of cloth to wipe the dirt off and polish the glass.
* Change the cloths as they become dirty
Whichever way you go about it, you will have a clean chandelier in far less time that you thought possible so you can then relax or go on to some other aspect of house cleaning.
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TweetThe American Shower Report, a survey of 1,000 Americans, conducted in the year 2006 shows very surprising results indeed. Most of the Americans clean themselves in lesser ideal conditions. The survey results show that nearly one third of those surveyed admitted to cleaning their shower only once every month or lesser than that. Not many people like to clean up their showers and it is quite a daunting task for majority of the Americans.
Cleaning of Shower: If the showers are not cleaned on a daily basis, then the soap scum tends to get deposited on the walls along with spots of hard water, mildew and lime scale. There are many products and brands available in the market for cleaning showers. There are some domestic cleaning products that need to be used after every shower. You have to use this spray after every shower. The basic idea is to clean the shower after every use, so that it does not get scummed in the first place. This is quite a good idea, but it proves to be costly and time consuming.
Ylang Ylang Method Daily Shower: The Ylang Ylang Daily Shower needs to be sprayed on the shower surfaces and bath areas after each shower to remove the dirt and debris from the shower surfaces and prevent buildup of scum. This product is very effective and has an intoxicating scent. The spray removes the grime from the shower surfaces and if it is used on a regular basis, then there is absolutely no need for scrubbing.
Scrubbing Bubbles Automatic Shower Cleaner: This is a new breakthrough in shower cleaning products. It has an innovative automatic system of spray cleaning. Scrubbing Bubbles Automatic Shower Cleaner has a patented formula for cleaning that mixes with the water on the shower walls to remove grime and goes on cleaning daily just at the touch of a button. The dirty shower is cleaned in just a few days and a clean shower is kept sparkling clean right from day one. The scrubbing is done away with forever. This product is fitted with a power sprayer that spins at 360 degrees, sprays the cleaning solution from a distance of over 8 feet. All the four walls of the shower are well covered by the power sprayer of Scrubbing Bubbles Automatic Shower Cleaner and it works best for both types of showers, with glass doors or curtains.
303 Shower Shield: 303 Shower Shield is an easier and less expensive solution to cleaning showers. It has manifold cleaning benefits as well. You have to follow simple steps like cleaning the shower, and then spraying it with 303 Shower Shield and wiping it completely dry. It is just a matter of few minutes and you will have the most clean and shining bathroom. 303 Shower Shield adds on a new luster to the shower doors, walls and fixtures and removes the mineral deposits, soap film and mildew. The effect of this product is quite long lasting and it lasts for about 6 weeks or longer. 303 Shower Shield is an environmentally safe and biodegradable product with a pleasant scent of lemon.
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TweetFiberglass sinks and tubs over a prolonged period of time develop stubborn stains, which become almost impossible to get rid off after a considerable span of time. But in the contemporary times it has become much easier to get rid of stains which earlier seemed almost impossible to get rid off. The availability of non-abrasive home cleaners, both mild and hard ones makes the tough job comparatively easier. In order to known more on how to clean fiberglass sinks and tubs follow the steps below.
Talking about non-abrasive cleaners to get rid of stains from the fiberglass sinks and tubs you must remember that the scrubbing part should be quite gentle at first and gradually a bit of pressure is required to remove the more stubborn ones. The non-abrasive cleaners which you can use can include dishwashing liquids mostly used for hands or other types of laundry detergents. The all-purpose household cleaners will also suit your purpose well. The mild as well as moderate alkali solutions such as baking soda dissolved in luke warm water is also perfect for the purpose of removing stains from the fiberglass sinks and tubs.
If the stain is too stubborn, then rub any one of the cleaners for the purpose of cleaning regularly and leave on for about an hour before rinsing it off completely. The tough stains are generally caused by adhesives, tar or oil paints. Thereafter moisten a clean cloth with a kind of solvent known as acetone, generally known by the name of nail polish remover as well as paint thinner and then slowly rub the stained area in a gentle manner. Make minimum use of the solvent for the purpose and then use a clean moist cloth to rub off the whole thing. You must also keep in mind that you should not let the solvent that you are using to go down through any of the plastic things. You should be very careful while using any kind of solvents. Make sure that you have plenty of ventilation in and around you when you are engaged in the task of cleaning. The mild abrasives such as Soft Scrub and Bon Ami should be used occasionally and must not be used for the purpose of regular domestic cleaning London. Through rinsing is must after the use of any sort of cleaner.
Cleaners like that of common scouring detergent of powders as well as steel wool and scrapers must be avoided to clean fiberglass sinks and tubs. It should always be kept in mind that a regular cleaning spree can avoid the stains to settle on a permanent basis. If you rub lemon and vinegar over and over on the stain, it is sure that the stains will not be so stubborn to remove. However make sure that you do not make use of any kind of acids to clean fiberglass sinks and tubs. And of course do not try out any new material for the purpose of cleaning until and unless the label clearly suggests that it is safe to be used for the purpose.
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TweetWith space becoming a premium commodity, especially in big cities like London, having a garage to protect your car is becoming increasingly difficult. The only option you have to protect this valuable investment is to use a car cover. But even the car cover will need cleaning every once in a while or the accumulated dirt and grime could form a hard film that will scratch the paint on your car each time the cover is put on or taken off.
Luckily car covers are designed to be easily cleaned and is not something you need to add to your home cleaning London contract. Most are machine washable, but sadly, not on domestic washing machines. You will have to take your car cover to a laundromat where they have commercial washing machines with no center agitator that could cause the cover to lose its shape. Follow the cleaning instructions that came with the cover or if they are missing simply select a cold wash cycle, put in the cover and use about a quarter cup of detergent. Once the washing is completed, run an additional rinse cycle because if even a little bit of soap remains on the cover it can affect its water resistance. Do not use a dryer unless the washing instructions specifically say you may. Air drying is the best and one way of doing this is to place the cover on the car and let it dry there.
If you can’t get to a Laundromat, you can clean the car cover yourself while it is on the car:
* Pull the cover tightly over the car and smooth out wrinkles as much a possible.
* Use a hose to wash off any loose mud and debris.
* Fill a bucket with water and mix in any mild detergent in the recommended proportion.
* Use a sponge to wash the cover with the water and detergent solution, scrubbing on any stained areas.
* Rinse thoroughly making sure that no detergent residue is left on the cover.
* Allow it to drip dry for about ten minutes and then remove the cover from the car, turn it inside out and place it back on the car.
* Repeat the complete cleaning process again.
* Allow the now external surface to air dry completely and once that happens, take off the cover, invert it and let the other surface dry.
* Now remove the cover and check for any soap stains that may have seeped through minute tears or cracks in the cover and wipe them off the car.
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TweetIf you have vinyl records at home, they will be old classics that are probably dear to you. Most of the music on vinyl records is now available of CDs but for a lot of people, there is nothing to beat the charm of listening to great old music in its original form. However, vinyl records are far more delicate that CDs and need to be carefully looked after and cleaned regularly to keep them in good condition. Playing a dirty record can both damage the record as well as the stylus of your record player.
* Dust off the records before and after each use. Make sure you use a soft cloth to gently wipe the surface. If you have a large collection to maintain its worthwhile buying a carbon fiber record cleaning brush available from music stores or shops that sell old records. Always wipe the record in a circular motion along the grooves. Do not rub too hard – you could damage or even break the record. Do not blow on the record – the moisture in your breath may get trapped in the grooves and collect dirt.
* To clean really dirty records, the best option is to use a specialty record domestic cleaning spray or solution. However, even these may affect the record if used to often so clean only when you must. Individual brands have their own usage instructions that should be followed meticulously.
* If record cleaning solutions and sprays are not available, you can make the solution yourself. Using a clean plastic or glass bowl make a solution of 80% distilled water and 20% isopropyl alcohol. Use only distilled water since tap water contains minerals that can affect the record surface. And use only isopropyl alcohol as any other form of alcohol will be too strong and could ruin the record.
* First wipe the dirt off the surface as mentioned above.
* Dip a piece of clean soft lint free cloth in the solution so that it becomes damp but not dripping wet. Use this cloth to wipe the record surface in a circular motion along the grooves. Rub any stained areas gently to loosen the dirt.
* Make sure no moisture comes into contact with the labels. This may loosen the glue and cause the label to fall off.
* Once both sides of the record are clean, wipe them dry with a clean soft cloth and then place it on a soft cloth to air dry completely.
Remember to always handle a record only by the edges and never to touch the record surface.
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TweetCleaning the inside of an oven is one of the least liked domestic cleaning jobs. This writer has a confession to make: I hate cleaning the inside of an oven so much that I only really do it when it’s time for the end of tenancy cleaning… and even then, I tend to get someone else to do it.
The reason for this is not because it’s a tough job that involves lots of elbow grease and grime to remove – well, not just because of this reason. It’s because I hate that horrible super-strong chemical spray stuff that you’re supposed to put into the oven to clean it. The fumes are absolutely vile, and I would really rather not have to buy (let alone use) something that requires the use of rubber gloves (which often have to be disposed of afterwards) and a face mask. Isn’t there a natural method for cleaning ovens?
There is, but be warned: it involves a lot of elbow grease. It also involves microfibre cloths of the Enjo type (specifically, it needs the green sort of cloth suitable for greasy stuff, if you are not used to Enjo colour-coding). Tune the radio to the sports station or get a talking book, as the job may take a while and you will need something to listen to while you work.
Start by getting a nice, big oven-proof dish or a roasting pan. Fill it with boiling water. Put it in the oven and close the door. Turn on the oven fairly high and let the water boil. Keep topping the water up (open the door with caution) so you get 1–2 hours of steam. Set it up once you’ve finished doing dinner for the evening, as once the two hours are up, you will need to leave the oven overnight after the steaming session. Leave the oven turned off!
Next morning once the oven is cold, open the door and get out your microfibre cloth. Remove the oven trays. Start the job of rubbing around the inside of the stove with the cloth. You may need to use some baking soda to help you, as this also helps cut the grease. Have a bucket of warm water handy, as you may need to rinse out the cloth a few times – or have several cloths. There is no denying that this is long job. If your oven is particularly foul, you may need to repeat the whole process, steam and all, several times. When all is looking grim, console and encourage yourself with the facts that (a) you won’t have to go to the gym, as you’re getting a great upper body workout, and possibly working your quads if you have to squat, and your cores if you twist around into odd positions; (b) you aren’t breathing in vile corrosive chemicals or adding them to the air or water.
You won’t need to clean the heating elements themselves – these are self-cleaning, as they burn off any splatters and spills.
The oven trays are a lot easier to clean. Line a big basin (the laundry sink is ideal) with aluminium foil. Pour in hot water. Add a cup of baking soda. Put the racks in, making sure that each one touches the aluminium foil somewhere. Leave them to soak for a couple of hours. Then rub them down with a cleaning cloth of some sort (microfibre optional). Dry well before replacing in the oven.
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TweetIt’s strange how we take it for granted that the iron, which is used on clean clothes, is itself always automatically clean. Actually irons can accumulate a lot of dirt that can not only make ironing more difficult (when the base or ÒsoleplateÓ gets covered with dirt or deposits so it does not glide over the fabric) but damage both the iron and the cloth – dirt and deposits in the reservoir can block the steam vents and also produce coloured steam that will stain cloth. The more minerals there are in your water (how ÒhardÓ it is) will affect how often you need to clean your iron. This is a simple job you can do yourself with not need to depend on your house cleaning service.
Start by cleaning the soleplate. Turn off and unplug the iron and allow it to cool to room temperature before beginning. Wipe the soleplate with a soft dry cloth and then gently wipe the surface of the soleplate with soapy water and a nylon mesh pad. Be careful not to scrub so hard that you scratch the non stick surface. Wipe the soleplate with damp paper towels till no soap deposits remains.
If there are still stains remaining, place some toothpaste on a soft cloth and rub the stained areas. Once the stain is gone, remove the toothpaste residue with damp paper towels.
If there are burn marks on the soleplate, you will have to use a different procedure to remove them. Make sure your iron is at room temperature. Cover the iron completely with paper, leaving only the soleplate exposed. Make sure that there are no gaps or tears in the rest of the paper – the iron cleaner you will be using can damage the finish of the body if it comes into contact with it. Spay oven cleaner on the soleplate and let it rest for 3 minutes. Rinse the soleplate with a soft cloth and cold water.
To clean the reservoir, first use a pipe cleaner to rub the mineral deposits away from the steam vents. Once this is done fill the reservoir one quarter full with white vinegar and turn on the iron. Steam out all the vinegar. Some of the deposits loosened by the vinegar will stick to the vents as they are steamed out. Clean the vents again with a pipe cleaner and fill the reservoir with water and steam until it is empty. If deposits still appear around the steam vents, repeat the vinegar procedure again and then steam again with water.
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TweetTime and time again in natural domestic cleaning recipes, you come across recommendations to use lemons as a natural cleaner.
Lemons certainly have a lot to recommend themselves in this department:
* They smell exquisite and the essential oil released from the skin when you use it is invigorating. This ensures that household chores are pleasant and enjoyable. Who doesn’t love the smell of real lemons? The fake lemon scent added to nearly every detergent just doesn’t come close.
* Lemon juice has a mild bleaching action, especially when it gets sunshine on it. This means that it can get rid of mildew spots on whites and can remove stains on most cloth. And there’s always the old schoolgirl trick (dating, obviously, to the days when schoolgirls didn’t have much discretionary spending money to take to the hairdressers) of putting highlights in your hair with lemon juice. Or you can take a tip from Anne of Green Gables and use it as a skin bleach to fade freckles and age spots (and it will act as a mild exfoliant, too). You will need to rinse it off afterwards.
* Lemons cut in half left in the fridge absorb unpleasant smells. Presumably, one should not eat the lemon after cutting it in half and leaving it uncovered in the fridge or it will taste peculiar (if you want to leave half a lemon in the fridge for later use, cover it to stop this happening).
* Lemon juice mixed with salt makes a first-class cleaner for brass and copper, as the acid attacks the grimy outer layer so it can be scoured off with the salt.
* As lemon juice is acidic, you can use it to get rid of limescale.
The only downside of cleaning anything with lemons is that it seems like a real waste of a delicious lemon. Vinegar can substitute for the lemon juice in many cases, and can do it much cheaper. True, vinegar won’t absorb smells in the fridge (but baking soda will) and it doesn’t have the scenting and bleaching properties, but for cleaning brass and removing limescale, vinegar will do the trick.
Call me stingy, but if I get hold of a lemon, I want to use it for cooking and eating. All that tangy (and healthy!) juice… that piquant zest… You can add lemon juice to soups to give it a bit of tang (do it last to preserve the full flavour); to muffins, alongside the zest; as slices in water for a refreshing drink, as a marinade for any meat, but especially chicken and fish, in icing for birthday cakes, as a source of pectin and acid in any jam or as marmalade in its own right, as a seasoning in mashed potato… the list goes on. And as a testament to lemon’s antioxidant powers, you can stir lemon juice over a fruit salad containing bananas and apples to prevent these fruit pieces going brown – the lemon juice will deal with the oxygen that causes the discolouration.
If you are lucky enough to be able to get them, you can use limes anywhere you would use lemons. This applies to culinary uses as well as house cleaning uses.
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